Tropins Blog

Dolphins are really neat mammals. They are loved by millions of us, and they are truly loved by the surfer, and there is a reason for that. The dolphin is the enemy to the shark. A surfer spends times out in the water and when they see dolphins around, they can relax because the likelihood of a shark being there too is very unlikely. Being in the water and having a shark underneath you can be quite a scary experience. It is unsure as to why the dolphin and shark do not get along.

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Although many sources of information on sugar gliders and their care emphasize taking care of a sugar glider’s food and its health more than anything else, there is one thing which is very important and that is the sugar glider’s cage elements. Following are some important items that should be available in a sugar glider’s cage to provide them a completely natural environment.

Nest Boxes

A nest box or glider pouch is the most important element for sugar gliders. The nest box should have the characteristics of absorbing moisture and breathe a bit. You can buy or even make a glider pouch at home, something along the lines of a wooden and unglazed clay pot with holes in the side for instance. Such a sugar glider pouch has the ability to absorb the urine and other wastes.

For a sugar glider’s health, at least once in a month, you should replace their nest box.

Another option that you can use as a sugar gliders nest is a cloth pouch. These pouches are easy to fix on the sides of the cage, are washable and can easily changed if required. Unless you have a cloth bag to use, you should also provide the bedding material as well. Cloth pouches are recommended for sugar gliders, but remove all the loose threads from the pouch.

Food Dishes

For food dishes, again you can use the same as you use for birds. The dishes should be wide enough to carry much food but not so wide that the sugar glider climbs in and spoils the food. For water, if your sugar glider is not trained enough to drink water through the water bottle, then you can use another dish for water.
These are just a few of the necessary elements that you must install in your sugar gliders cage. This will give them a completely natural environment.

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Your dog’s health is a very important part of overall care, and when you have a dog: Worms are a common problem. Puppies tend to get worms more often than grown dogs do. Here are common types of worms puppies and dogs get, and the various side effects that can result:

In general, puppies or dog’s with worms can become sick. Symptoms include weight loss, weakness, being listless, having an upset stomach, not growing well, and sometimes even lung and breathing problems.

A puppy who’s extremely thin could be having health problems with worms. A very shoddy looking coat is another sign of health problems, and even a potbelly could be an indication the puppy is worm infested.

Grown dogs may not show any outward signs when they have worms, but unfortunately they tend to spread them more than puppies do, because they pass large amounts of worm larvae, or eggs, through their feces.

There are several different types of worms that can jeapordize your dog’s health: Tapeworm, roundworm, ringworm and heartworm are the most common.

Tapeworms have flat, segmented bodies and can sometimes be seen as rice-like segments or chains in the droppings of your dog or puppy. These are a common type of dog health problem, and they tend to be combined with flea infestations. Because of this, you’ll often find dog health remedies that treat both fleas and tapeworms together.

Roundworms (toxocara) live and produce hundreds of eggs in the intestine, and are easily passed onto children.

Roundworm eggs are very hardy, resistant to heat and cold, and can survive up to 7 years in the soil. The eggs can pass on to children through ingestion and cause them to fall sick as well.

As a precaution, it’s a good idea to train your dog or puppy to use a bathroom area which is not played in by children. Having a specific area also makes it easier for you to pick up and dispose of the droppings safely. Also be sure to have children wash their hands after handling puppies, and teach both the children and puppies to not lick on the hands or face.

All dogs and puppies should be “de-wormed” every 6-12 months, depending on the area you live in. Consult with your veterinarian for the best schedule in your area.

A variety of all natural health care pet products are available as well. See http://www.mypetanimals.com/Pet-Health-Care/ for additional information and resources.

© 2005, Kathy Burns-Millyard

This article is provided courtesy of The My Pet Animals Pet Shopping & Information Portal - This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the links are live, and this notice is left intact.

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Over the past several years, the wild mother cat who has taken up residence in our barn in rural Wisconsin has given me many opportunities to figure out how to tame wild kittens. The mother cat always hides her kittens very well, and then, when they are big enough to leave the nest and are big enough to eat kitty food, she brings them out and expects me to feed them.

When the wild mother cat brings her kittens out of the nest, it is the first time in their lives they have seen a human being, and they tend to be hissing, spitting bits of fluff that really look as though they mean business. And since they already have teeth and claws, I would rather not push the issue. I also would rather not let them remain wild, living in my barn, having kittens of their own. Six kittens, within a year or two, could turn into 56.

As of early 2005, the wild mother cat has had more than 20 kittens in our barn, and I have managed to tame them and to find homes for most of them (unfortunately, several were lost when the wild momma kitty took them out to teach them how to hunt).

Here are some tips for taming wild kittens:

1. Buy some canned kitty food — In my experience, kittens are always hungry and are always interested in canned kitty food. I have noticed it doesn’t matter what brand, just so long as it has fish in it. The smell of fish seems irresistible to kittens.

2. Let the kittens smell the canned kitty food — Open the can and then try to get as close to them as possible so they can smell the food. Once they get a whiff of it, and this is especially true of younger kittens that are anywhere from four weeks old to a few months old, they will be so interested in the canned kitty food they will forget (somewhat) that you are right next to them.

3. Use a fork (or spoon) to scoop out some of the food and let the kittens eat off the end of the fork (spoon) — This is an important step. Do NOT put a forkful of food down and then back off. From the very first, hold the fork toward the kitten and let the kitten eat off the end of the fork. Stick to your guns and do not give up. If the kitten wants canned kitty food, the kitten MUST eat it off the end of the fork or the spoon. This is the first step in getting the kitten used to being close to you and in growing accustomed to your hand coming closer. This will be useful later on when you are trying to pet the kittens. After the kitten has eaten food off the end of the fork/spoon, THEN you can put a little food down for the kitten to eat on its own.

4. Repeat step 3 every time you offer the kittens some canned food — At first, the kittens are going to be cautious about your hand coming toward them. The fork with the food will help to overcome that resistance. After you have done this a couple of times, the kittens will look forward to eating off the fork and will start to lose their fear of you and your hand.

5. Stay right there while the kittens are eating — After you have put out some canned food for the kittens, stay there and don’t move off. Let them eat with you next to them. This will help teach them to associate human beings with “good things.”

6. Carefully start to pet the kittens — After feeding them a couple of times without trying to pet them, which will begin to teach them that they can trust you, put food out and let the kittens start to eat. Then slowly reach down and pet them a little bit. Continue to sit there while they finish eating.

7. Carefully start to pick up the kittens — After you can successfully put out food and remain there while the kittens eat and can pet them a little bit, try picking up a kitten. If you can, grasp the kitten by the scruff of the neck. This is how mother cats carry their kittens, and when you do this, the kitten will go limp. Hold the kitten against your shoulder and talk softly to it, but don’t say “Hi kitten” or anything starting with an “h” sound. To a kitten, this sounds like a cat hissing, and the kitten will become frightened. Hold the kitten for a minute or so and then, grasping it by the scruff of the neck, set it down. After you have done this several times, the kitten will realize that no harms come to it from being picked up and handled.

Depending upon the age of the kittens and basic personality traits, the whole process, from starting with canned kitty food on the fork to being able to pet them and pick them up, could be accomplished in a few days or it might take a few weeks. Eventually, the kittens will know that people mean good things, and when they see you coming, they will come running to meet you. It has been my experience that cats quickly recognize when a situation is to their advantage, and once the kittens know you are a source of good things to eat and that you mean them no harm, they will want to be friends.

If you have any questions, you are welcome to send me an e-mail at bigpines(at)ruralroute2.com (replace (at) with @)

If you would like to read an article about feeding and caring for orphaned kittens, go to the “articles” section of my website at http://ruralroute2.com — or if you would like to read more stories about cats and kittens from my book, “Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam” (free shipping (!) on copies ordered from the author) — visit http://ruralroute2.com and click on sample chapters.

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About the Author

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books “Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)” and “Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam.” You are invited to read sample chapters and to sign up for Rural Route 2 News, the FREE monthly newsletter from Rural Route 2. Visit — http://ruralroute2.com

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There are many things to consider when choosing a dog trainer. Taking a class should be not only educational but fun. It is important to find an effective trainer and anyone shopping for such a service look carefully at what they are getting. There are no certification or standards required to become a dog trainer. Anyone may print “dog trainer” or “animal behaviorist” on a business card and consider themselves a professional.

What to Look for in a Dog Trainer’s Qualifications:

Certifications: How a trainer obtained their certification should be taken into consideration. A trainer should be certified through a specialized organization which trains dogs for services work or a dog training school which gives a credit equivalent to a college degree. Be aware that there are many companies which offer certifications on-line or through the mail; this involves a short written course which, for a fee, they will send you a certification. There are no standards to theses tests, allowing each company to determine what qualifies an individual to pass the “course”. Ask what type of certifications an instructor has.

Verify: how many years the trainer has been teaching professionally and not as a sports trainer or hobbyist. While years alone are not enough to determine the quality of a trainer’s experience, it will tell you something if they have had the ability to continue in their profession.

Licensed: Is the trainer licensed as a business and meets all city, county, state and federal regulations?

What to Look For in a Dog Trainer’s Methods:

Observe: Attend a class! If a trainer does not allow you to do so, look for a different trainer Watch the students reactions to the instructor. Are they enthusiastic or reserved? Do they seem comfortable? Both dogs and clients should enjoy themselves and a quality trainer will be courteous and polite to both human and canine students. Notice: Does the trainer provide clear instructions? Is there proper demonstrations of what the trainer expects the students to do? Do they provide students with individual assistance when needed?

Methods: A good trainer will provide you with an honest explanation of the pros and cons of methods they employ. Pay attention to what equipment is being used when you attend an observation class. What types of collars are the dogs wearing? Chokes or prong collars have their place but are not for a beginner obedience dog. Such a dog has no understanding of the new commands they are learning and should not be punished for what they do not “know”. Bullying and all similar methods or equipment that could cause the dog pain, distress or has the potential for physical harm are unacceptable. If you feel that anyone, a trainer, an animal care professional or other, is causing your dog undue pain, harm or distress in any form, you have the complete right to stop them immediately! Do so!!

Preferred Style: Ask about a trainer’s background and which style of training they prefer. A teacher whose primary experience is in Schutzhund or Protection Training may not be the first choice as a house companion dog instructor. It does not disqualify them as a quality trainer, however, an instructor who enjoys working families and children, competition obedience, Therapy Dogs or puppy kindergartens may be the preferred teacher for a companion pet.

Protect: An instructor should take steps to protect a dog’s health in a group environment. Are all dogs and puppies required to be vaccinated prior to enrollment? Which vaccines are required?

Behavior problems: Be wary if a trainer assures you that a specific behavior problem will be resolved. A trainer can assist you with behavior modification, nothing is absolute. While a good trainer should guarantee satisfaction, they should not guarantee complete results. They should instead promise to do their best and convince you to help your dog and yourself by being consistent with your pet and promising follow-up training at home.

Your Needs: Does a trainer offer multiple schooling options and advise which is best suited for your individual needs? Or does the trainer have a “one size fits all” approach?

Follow Up: Does the trainer provide any satisfaction guarantees, follow-up support, and if so, what is the cost?

While a good dog trainer does not have to be expensive, don’t base your choice on price alone. Sit through a few classes and do some research before signing up for lessons. What you learn from a dog training course can mean a better behaved canine companion and make a difference in your daily life for the next 17 years.

About the Author: Layla Dean is a animal lover and contributor to PetsPages.info

This article may be reprinted in full so long as the resource box and the live links are included intact. All rights reserved. Copyright Layla Dean.

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For heat dissipation and body cooling, a horse trotting at 11.2 mph loses about 3.3 gallons of sweat per hour under moderate conditions. The salts/electrolytes sodium, potassium, chloride, magnesium and calcium are also lost with this loss of fluid. These electrolytes are responsible for the transfer of water through cell membranes, for nerves to fire and muscles to contract. Large losses of electrolytes can result in several neuromuscular and systemic disturbances including muscle cramping, tying up, synchronous diaphragmatic flutter (thumps) and systemic alkalosis.

Our goal as the equine caretaker is to prevent electrolyte imbalance and dehydration in the performance/stressed horse thru proper fluid and electrolyte replacement. Balance can greatly prolong reaching the point of fatigue and also decrease recovery time.

If you’re feeding a well formulated commercial ration intended for a performance horse, the chances are good that they’ve met the electrolyte needs of the lightly to moderately worked horse, under most conditions (always make plain salt available). Electrolyte availability can become a problem when the rate of loss exceeds the rate of replacement. If the horse sweats for a prolonged period of time, due to extreme weather conditions (high humidity, high heat), prolonged exercise (endurance type work), heavily worked/trained horses (race horses in training) or stressed horses (transporting), electrolyte needs will not always be met through their feed. For these horses, electrolyte supplementation becomes necessary to maintain body functions at an optimum level and to increase water intake preventing dehydration. Electrolytes should not be given to a horse that is already dehydrated, except under the supervision of a veterinarian.

Horses do not “store” sodium, potassium or chloride. Adding daily electrolyte supplementation would not be necessary, when feeding a balanced feeding program, unless the horse is being worked/trained hard daily and losing a large amount of sweat. When preparing for an event, choose an electrolyte formula that is palatable/acceptable to your horse, and don’t wait until the day of the competition to find out. Use caution if adding electrolytes to water due to the possibility of decreased water consumption.

There are lots of opinions about appropriate administration schedules and dose rates. Follow the instructions per the brand that you choose. Learn and adjust to your horses specific needs and weather conditions. Train your horse to the level needed for the event. Increased electrolytes will not replace proper conditioning.

Electrolytes containing bicarbonate are formulated for horses with diarrhea. These can be harmful when used as an electrolyte supplement for stress and exercise.

Feeding electrolytes without proper water consumption will cause water to be absorbed from the bloodstream into the intestine, resulting in greater dehydration. From a non-working to a heavy working saddle horse, the water intake can increase 7 - 10 gallons/day. Check for signs of dehydration regularly and don’t wait until your horse looks dehydrated to administer electrolytes. Learn to perform skin pinch, capillary and jugular refill and mucous membrane testing as well as listening for gut sounds. Continue with electrolyte supplementation when the event is completed to aid in recovery if necessary.

http://www.tdihorsefeeds.com
800-457-7577
Edna L. Morris

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To teach a dog to jump, with your right hand hold a cane just high enough above the ground so that your dog can easily step over it, and in your left hand hold a piece of treat just in front of him, so that he will have to step over the stick to get it. As the dog grows older and understands what you want him to do, you can raise the stick a few inches at a time, so that he will be obliged eventually to jump over it to obtain the reward. Occasionally refrain from rewarding him, and thus accustom him to jumping without a reward.

After a dog will jump over a stick he can be taught to jump over your extended foot or through a hoop or your arms; in fact, a small dog can be taught to jump through your arms much more easily than over a stick, as all you, have to do is to throw a treat on the ground and hold your arms in front of him so that he will have to walk through them to gain the reward, gradually elevating your arms so that he will be obliged to jump before you allow him to pass. Always encourage your dog by saying “Hip” whenever he jumps.

Rope Jumping

After a dog has learned to leap he can be taught to jump the rope, but this will require considerable practice. In the beginning tie one end of the rope to some stationary object a few inches from the ground and hold the other end with your hand, drawing the rope taut close to the ground; accustom your dog to jumping over it while it is at rest, and don’t forget to use the word “Hip’ or “Hoop-la” each time he jumps.

When he does this satisfactorily you can give the rope a slight swaying motion and at the proper moment give him the word “Hip,” and if the rope is not swinging too fast or far he will in all probability jumps over it.

After he will do this all that remains to be done is to gradually swing the rope farther and faster until he learns to jump the rope satisfactorily. A dog which will jump the rope standing on four legs is doing well, but it is possible to teach him to do so while standing on his hind legs; this is, however a very difficult feat and puts considerable strain on the dog’s muscles, and it is not always advisable to force a dog to do it.

Retrieving is not the only game which you can engage with your dog, try the rope jumping game when you have got the chance, it can be good exercise and great fun for both of you too!

About the Author

Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of DogsObedienceTraining.com - The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

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